A Mistake: How I Overfoliated

by - March 02, 2018

Naoko Takeuchi owns the rights to all images of Sailor Moon
This is how I feel after a month of using this vitamin C formula.

Before I ever opened my first bottle of skincare acid I made sure to read all about proper usage and general guidelines. I read several articles about the dangers of overexfoliation and the signs to watch out for. Fast forward to now and poof! I'm suffering from overexfoliation. It turns out that I've been experiencing it for about a month too but I didn't recognize the signs. The reason is that my signs of overexfoliation don't quite look like what I had learned.

So what are the common signs? I'm going to go ahead an quote some other fantastic blogs because they have already said it better than I ever will. From Lab Muffin:

Sensitive, red, tight, weirdly shiny (not in a good way) skin is a hallmark of exfoliating too much, too fast. Your skin needs its protective outer layer, and scrubbing too much off will lead to inflamed, dehydrated skin. If this happens to you, put a hold on all exfoliation until your skin gets back to normal – then let it rest for a few days before going back to exfoliating.

I also highly recommend reading Fiddy's guide on overexfoliation! I'm going to go ahead and sum things up here since it is important to watch out for:

-redness and flakiness, even in places not usually prone to that kind of problem
-stinging/burning during product application, even when using the most gentle moisturizers
-tight, thin, overly smooth skin


Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately(?), I didn't manifest most of those signs. Instead, I had a month long period where my skin was never quite as smooth as it could be, I had an increase in pimples in my usual areas, my cheeks were a tiny bit more red than usual, the flaky area around my mouth was worse than normal, and I could never achieve 'The Glow'. During this month the weather has been brutally dry and windy, the temperature has shifted drastically, and my central heating has been going non-stop. Can you fault me for thinking it was just the weather screwing with my skin? Plus, I was trying out a new vitamin C and I didn't know what to expect.

It wasn't until I was visiting a kbeauty loving friend that I began to clue in. That evening, I tried out one of her acid serums because I thought my skin needed more exfoliation to get back to smooth. Since the serum was supposed to be considerably gentler than what I had been using I expected to be unaffected. Particularly since its use was followed up by layer after layer of hydrating and emollient products. To top it all off, I even added a sleeping pack and extra facial oil. I woke up the next morning expecting to have The Glow but no. My face was somewhat less red but that was it. A few hours after waking the usual redness was back. My skin felt tight and a little warm, but never anything that seemed extreme.

Sailor Moon is the property of Naoko Takeuchi
What have I done?

I continued to be clueless. Later that same day I visited my mother who is generally uninterested in the world of skincare. While we chatted about some of things I had learned she made a tiny, throwaway comment: "Your skin looks a little tight" Suddenly everything clicked into place. It really felt like a moment of epiphany where a light had suddenly turned on. Oh my goodness, what have I done to myself?!?

I immediately went into recovery mode. All acids have been retired to the back of my closet with the exception of Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid. I now use it just once per day instead of twice. Sheetmasking is no longer optional. Once per day I wear a mask for around 30 minutes with hydrating toners, serums and rosehip oil layered under and after the mask. I'm piling on creams, oils and a sleeping pack.

Is all of this giving me breakouts? Yes. However, my skin is softer and smoother than it has been all month, my redness is going down and my flakes are nearly gone. I figure I can deal with pimples once my skin's moisture barrier is repaired.

Going forward I think it's important to be more careful with active ingredients. This time of overexfoliation coincides perfectly with my use of The Ordinary Vitamin C suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. I knew from the first time I used that product that I needed to be careful because it is gritty (read: physically exfoliating) and stung like hell as the little bits of L-ascorbic acid absorbed into my skin at some ungodly low pH. I persisted in using it despite my misgivings so really, this is my own damn fault.

Still, a learning experience has value and I will keep this lesson in mind as I move forward.

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